1. Cerro Caja Real, 5002m Summit GPS UTM 18L 0429356 8654398


On 26/10/12, Robert Middleton and Hannah Moulton climbed what are believed to be two new, or newly reported routes on Cerro Caja Real, Yauyos, Peru, while part of an international caving expedition to the area. See  for more details of the expedition.


The peak is granite, however there is much loose rock, meaning that both routes are serious despite their low technical difficulties. Both routes were climbed in summer condition, using rock gear and  moving together.


Cerro Caja Real South Ridge – 400m long (80m ascent) Vdiff / AD –


Approach from the East, up the left fork of the main gully South of the main peak. Start from the Col (GPS UTM 18L 0429358 8654200).


Climb the first gendarme with interest, then cross the next col and head right of the ridge crest avoiding the worst of the loose rock. Follow the easiest line, then eventually head left over the crest as the ridge sides steepen, to locate a steeply descending chimney crack. Follow easy slabs for 80m to the summit.


Cavers Crawl – 250m long (100m ascent) Diff/ PD+ (used as descent route)


The prominent ramp below the South Ridge on the East side heads at constant 40 degree angle from the right fork of the gully, straight to the summit slabs. A couple of awkward steps are encountered as is much loose rock. Can be used in descent.


The peak has certainly been climbed before as a cairn was present on top, and our two ways chosen are fairly obvious, though probably not the easiest, so may have been climbed previously, although I can find no reference to this.